The Real Italian if it's No Big Deal

The eponymous Lillo is an unkempt bearded bear of a man who speaks English haltingly but manages to convey his absolute pride in his cooking and love of Italia at the same time that he exudes utter nonchalance. My paisa panino ($9.95) with tuna, EVOO and artichoke hearts was the kind of perfect sandwich to which I aspire in my own kitchen

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