Notable Noshes 1: Try to Remember...What I Ate in September
I have been fortunate to have been on the go a lot in September and October. This post and the next (Part Two) is a smorgasbord of notable noshes from our home NYC, from San Francisco, Boston, Marrakech and Montreal.
Beach mango - Our beach mango was the perfect sweet and spicy end to a perfect last New York beach day with my daughter Julie. I had never dared to try street or beach mango, imagining the kind of scene comedian John Mulaney conjured up in his brilliant churro in the subway SNL skit. But Julie convinced me to pay $5 for a baggie full of juicy mango slices, coated in two seasonings that were new to me, Tajín, the brand name for a mix of 100% chili powder mixed with lime and salt, and Chimoy. Produced by the Tajín company, Chimoy is often confused with Tajín. However, while this saucy preparation also uses chili powder and lime, it is sweetened by fruit. The sweet/sour/spicy combo drizzled over mango slices is ambrosial. This just in! As I was finishing this blog post, I saw a link to a Houston Eater story all about Tajín. Houston is home to the company that makes the secret sauce, which Eater claims, “has gained a following.”
Bread pudding with figs at Tartine - If I only have one day in San Francisco, which we did when attending a wedding in Woodside, then I will start that day with a pilgrimage to Tartine, home of the morning bun I wrote about here! We went to Tartine in the Mission neighborhood and were dismayed that the restaurant was not only still following COVID protocol—no seating inside but masks required—but also had no espresso due to staff shortages. Still I had to have my morning bun, and, for the grumpy coffee-less Chef, I bought their seasonal bread pudding with figs. Oh what a luxurious bread pudding this was! Nestled within cubes of custard-like bread were oodles of fresh figs, sweetened with honey. The Chef made noises as if this indulgence was just too rich for his blood, but I can’t help noticing he finished it up, scraping the side of the container.
EVERYTHING at Bar Crudo - In our day in San Francisco, we wanted to be sure to have one standout meal. Leave it to the Chef to come up with Bar Crudo, a restaurant that has been serving a wide range of oysters and creative presentations of raw seafood since 2005. First off, the Oysters, from Washington State, had a creamy texture unlike anything we’d tasted in a raw oyster. Dishes were smallish, but packed so much punch, we were well sated. We shared a starter of esquites, which transforms yellow corn kernels into a can’t-get-enough of concoction made from burnt apple butter, queso blanco, lime, cilantro and aleppo pepper. A scallop ceviche and the arctic char tacos were transformed by complex, perfect seasonings from unlikely partners like Japan and Mexico. But our absolute favorite dish turned out to be our only hot one: seafood chowder, a perfect brew of cream, potatoes, ample chunks of fish and shellfish, and a strong note of smoky bacon.
Tatte’s Biscuit & Egg sandwich ($9.00) - Israeli Tzurit Or started selling her baked goods at a Copley Square farm stand in Boston in 2007 and now runs an empire of two dozen Tatte bakery/cafes in Boston and Washington, D.C. In our frequent runs up to Boston, I came under Tatte’s warm spell: these popular restaurants are plain but elegant, with white tiled walls, sturdy metal seats, and wooden counters and shelves. But most important are what is on them: meringues as big as your head, beguiling brioches, creamy quiches (the tomato one is much lauded). After a recent excruciatingly early train ride to Boston, I stopped for breakfast in a new Tatte full to bursting with Northeastern students. Yet, no one was slacking for the student appetite. I was tempted by a tartine laden with garden peas and ricotta. I will get a biscuit, though, whenever one is on offer from a reputable bakery, and Tatte’s flaky, buttery biscuit cradled simple, fluffy scrambled eggs ($9.00). Admittedly not for the ravenous, the biscuit and egg does come with a tangy side salad of cherry tomatoes doused with vinaigrette.
Bing and Congee at Oh! Dumplings- Back in New York City…This little Cobble Hill, Brooklyn spot opened in 2018, and I snubbed it, because once I’d had North dumplings, it’s hard to find better at a reasonable price. But here’s the thing: Bing! Bings are Chinese crepe concoctions, basically a huge flat pancake made from organic green bean and flour batter, layered with sauce, cabbage, chives, crispy won ton noodles and a meat of your choice ($9.25). The whole thing is then folded into a tidy square (which may fall apart as you eat) and sprinkled with black sesame seeds. I had the pork one, which was tender and slathered in a sweet Hoisin-like sauce. After the bing I had my late sister Carol’s favorite comfort food, the chicken congee. This Chinese rice porridge, flavored with chicken broth is comfort in a paper cup. Small pieces of organic chicken, celery, mushrooms and carrots are hidden within. Coming upon them with my spoon is like finding treasures deep in a snow drift.
Gonzaga mini at Madman Bakery—I checked out this University Place bakery last spring and found the sandwiches stellar and the staff incredibly friendly. A Yelp reviewer calls the focaccia bread used for Madman’s sandwiches suitably “INSANE” for its light chewy interior and crispy top. I’m not sure why, but all sandwiches are named for famous movie directors, like the Welles or Scorsese, and full ones are $12-14 while half sandwiches (“minis”) are $7.50. I don’t know who the Gonzaga mini is named for, but it contains soft daubs of Gorganzola, fig jam, walnuts and arugula, and is ample enough to share for a snack. The Chef and I also shared a pizza slice layered with thin, crispy potato slices. It’s nice to have an excellent go-to place for coffee and quality savories and sweets right near The Strand. Books and bakeries go well together.