Savory Surprise at a Sweets Stalwart

Unlike the pan de quejo at O Café, the pogácsa at The Hungarian Pastry Shop have more puff than cheese—tiny baked curlicues of Parmesan on top-- and flaky layers that separate easily as in the best Southern biscuit. Ask for them to heat it up; it will take 20 minutes in a strange hamster cage contraption that warms items just enough to soften the cold, luxurious butter.

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